|
Classy dining room belies the gutsy pan-Mediterranean food coming out
of the kitchen.
The
Scene
This stylish eatery just north of South Beach has yet to be discovered
by Miami's foodie hordes. Too bad, because they'd find a classy, intimate
deco-esque restaurant with soft cream-leather chairs, terrazzo floor,
plush banquettes and not nearly enough customers. Given the gorgeous
room, crisp and professional service and lusty, moderately priced food,
the restaurant shouldn't go undiscovered for long.
The
Food
Many restaurants merely dip their toes in the ocean of Mediterranean
cuisine, but the Abbey dives in headfirst. Not every dish is successful;
witness tough monkfish in a misbegotten fig sauce and desiccated potato-anchovy
pancake. But other dishes delight the taste buds with bold and brassy
flavors. There's a lovely salad of remarkably tender grilled octopus,
creamy-dreamy mussel soup, spicy merguez (lamb sausage) with dried-fruit
couscous and gloriously simple, roasted whole Spanish bass. The tarte
Tatin is a well-done rendition of a French classic
|