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Go for big fun at the bar or the big menu of well-prepared fish and shellfish.
The
Scene
This ramshackle restaurant feels like a Florida Keys seafood shack plunked
down in the gritty heart of industrial Miami. You can sit indoors (like
anyone would want to), but the best seats are outside at tables fronting
the Miami River or the bar built around a large banyan tree. With cars
clattering across a nearby drawbridge, tugboats hauling big ships down
the river, MetroRail cars zooming overhead and airplanes blasting their
way through the sky, the place literally reverberates with urban energy.
The
Food
The kitchen doesn't excessively gild the seafood lily, instead presenting
food simply, in large portions and with minimal garnishes. Succulent
shrimp, served with creamy white beans and wilted spinach, are ever-so-Italian.
Crab cakes are among the best in town; good, too, is a slab of delicate
sea bass in a thin, wine-filled, herb-flecked sauce. Deep-fried whole
yellowtail is tasty but dry. Believe it or not, "gourmet" key
lime pie really is
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