This lounge in the Townhouse Hotel is hipper than it is comfortable, but the freewheeling nouveau sushi is superb.

The Scene
Nobody ever said chic would be easy. The small, bi-level dining room can get sardine can-crowded and rock concert-loud, both of which you might overlook in the dim light while hunched over tiny, low-set tables trying to get your food to your mouth via chopsticks. It's an arrangement only optometrists, chiropractors and dry cleaners can love.

The Food
It's an exciting and innovative interpretation of Japanese cuisine. Nigiri sushi is exquisitely fresh and addictive, especially unctuous toro (tuna belly) and almost candy-sweet shrimp. Maki sushi is more daring but equally delightful. Don't miss the luxurious lobster tempura roll and arugula roll with crispy potato sticks. The seviche quartet (lobster, salmon, octopus and fluke) is excellent; gently steamed sea bass topped with aromatics and sizzling oil is sublime. Even teriyaki-style grilled sirloin is a revelation. Green tea tiramisu is perfectly done, but perhaps an acquired taste, but the molten-centered Valrhona chocolate cake is a taste everyone should acquire