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The address may say South Beach, but the food says Northern Italy.
The
Scene
Reminiscent of a Lincoln Road restaurant, Joia boasts a stylish exterior
that gives way to a tiny, oh-so-chic dining room and expansive covered
outdoor patio, cooled by whirring fans and protected from the elements
by drop-down plastic curtains. It attracts a mixed clientele of SoBe
chic geeks, tourists and regular folks. The staff is probably better-looking
than you are but is knowledgeable about the menu as well as surprisingly
attentive and efficient.
The
Food
Despite its trendy location, there's very little that's trendy about
Joia's cuisine, which tends toward clean, simple flavors and straightforward,
no-nonsense presentations. Stellar examples are gently cooked calamari
in a lusty tomato-based broth, fork-tender veal T-bone in butter-sage
sauce and an extraordinary risotto that sings of fresh tomatoes and crab.
Less successful is the beef carpaccio, which is overwhelmed by a tart,
lemony vinaigrette and gorgeous but bland-tasting tiramisu
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