Hearty, homey Italian cuisine satisfies both the soul and the palate at this modest eatery.

The Scene
Located on a stretch of Washington Street, Osteria del Teatro's modest façade and dining room are in keeping with the neighborhood. That doesn't matter to patrons, however, who pack the restaurant and make reservations essential. Service isn't by the usual I'm-really-an-actor 20-somethings but by skilled and seasoned professionals.

The Food
Flip through the regular menu, then abandon it in favor of the lengthy list of daily specials, which are at the heart of Osteria's cookery. If you're lucky, appetizers will include fat spears of asparagus and grilled polenta smothered with an indecently rich, creamy gorgonzola sauce. Carpaccio is less exciting but of excellent quality. Pastas are a house specialty and delicious, whether seafood linguine in a tomato-rich broth baked in parchment or veal-stuffed ravioli sauced with brown butter and fried sage. The tiramisu is dessert heaven